Not all bugs are bad for trees. Though, some can kill a considerable number of trees in a quick amount of time.
As tree care professionals that provide tree removal in Rochester, we encounter insects all the time and know the difference between a little bug and one that’s a huge problem.
Which bugs are bad for trees? Here are some you should watch out for in your Rochester outdoor space.
A damaging bug is a gypsy moth. One year, gypsy moths damaged over 12 million acres of hardwood trees. They seem to like oak but will strike most hardwood types. Gypsy moth egg masses are typically found on the branches and trunks of trees. The gypsy moth is most detrimental in the caterpillar stage of its life cycle when it devours hardwood trees’ leaves. Gypsy moth infestations are common in the northeastern part of the U.S.
Carpenter ants don’t eat wood. What they do is clean it out to construct tunnels for nesting sites. In comparison to the gypsy moth, an infestation by carpenter ants expands slowly. Still, they can create widespread damage. They usually nestle in rotting trees while making any structural damage even worse. Because they don’t eat the wood, they can leave a material similar to sawdust called frass behind.
Leaf-feeding aphids are typically not damaging. But, vast populations of these bugs can create stunting of shoots and leaf changes. Aphids also make large quantities of a sticky exudate referred to as honeydew, which frequently turns black with the expansion of mold fungus. Some aphid species insert a toxin into trees which additionally messes up growth.
Balsam Wooly Adelgid
Adelgids are soft-bodied, little aphids that feed solely on coniferous plants thanks to a piercing-sucking mouth. They are an annoying bug and are considered to be of Asian origin. The balsam wooly adelgid and adelgid attack firs and hemlock by eating the sap.
Douglas-Fir Bark Beetle
The Douglas-fir beetle is a dangerous and crucial bug throughout the selection of its principal host, the Douglas-fir. The Western larch is also attacked sometimes. The damage caused by this bug delivers an economic loss if Douglas -fir lumber has been huge in the tree's natural span.
If you believe your trees are infested with bugs, contact a Rochester arborist and arrange a tree inspection.
Have you ever wondered if evergreens ever lose their needles?
Conifers, also known as evergreens, don’t permanently keep their needles. Most types lose their older needles each autumn, presenting the tree with an unhealthy appearance. This is no reason to be alarmed.
Many homeowners have a pine or spruce tree in their outdoor space. These trees are usually called evergreen since they are green. Moreover, they drop their leaves every fall unlike tree types like ash or maple.
Evergreen trees have folks believing that the needles should last forever. This is why some people get upset when they see any needles (leaves) on the tree get brown and fall.
Like any plant, evergreens can die from insects, environmental stresses, and diseases, making needles fall prematurely. The question then is: how can you tell if your needles falling is normal?
Evergreens and Needles: What You Should Know
Though called evergreen by lots of folks, trees with needle-shaped leaves are referred to as conifers. This conifer category includes the following trees: spruce, hemlock, cedar, pine, fir, and others. Several of these tree types keep their needles to stay green all year long.
Although all conifers lose some of their needles every year, most keep their needles through many growing seasons but lose some of their less efficient, older needles every autumn. Before falling, these needles change color from a healthy green to orange, brown-red, yellowish hue based on the tree type.
Early in the shedding routine, when the needles are still on the branches, these trees could have a bad appearance which can generate unwarranted concern. Luckily, needles falling in the autumn from healthy trees should be replenished with new growth next spring.
A solid growing season followed by a couple of moderate growing years will make a more significant percentage of the needles to be lost in some autumn seasons than others. Again, this is no reason to be worried.
If your whole tree or whole sections of evergreens have needles changing color, this could be a reason to be concerned. Schedule a tree inspection with an arborist to find out what’s the problem.
Have you ever thought about the age of that enormous tree in your yard? If you are unsure when your tree was planted, calculate the circumference to approximate its age. While not as precise, measurement estimate is the most straightforward technique to find the age of a tree without cutting. If it’s an evergreen, you can calculate its rows of branches or whorls.
Broadleaf trees develop whorls sporadically so counting them is only applied for evergreens. Counting the rings give the correct estimate, but you don’t want to chop down a healthy tree to establish its age. As an alternative, count the rings on a living tree, taking a core sample with an increment borer.
Measure the Trunk
Calculate the circumference of the tree at breast height. The average breast height is 4 1⁄2 ft. from the ground. Put a fabric measuring tape around the trunk at this height and mark the tree’s circumference.
If the ground is slanted, measure 4 1⁄2 ft from the ground on the uphill side, note the place then perform the same on the downhill side. The breast height is typically the middle spot between the downhill and uphill measurements.
Find the trunk’s radius and diameter. To get the diameter, use pi or 3.14 to divide the circumference. Next, get the radius by using 2 to divide the diameter.
Subtract anywhere from 1⁄4 to 1 inch for the bark. For tree types with thick bark, subtract 1inch from the measure of the radius. Subtract 1⁄4 inch for trees with thin bark like the birch tree. If you aren’t sure and want to get a ballpark estimate, subtract a 1⁄2 inch from the radius.
Use felled trees to get the measurement of ring width. Look for felled or dead trees of the same type. If you see one with visible rings, count the rings and get the radius. Divide the radius by the number of rings to get the average ring width. If this might be a bit much for you or math has never been your thing, ask a tree specialist to get the age of your uncut tree for you.
It doesn’t matter if your damaged tree is a beautiful, flowering tree or an old, memorable tree in your backyard, bark damage can hurt your tree. The location, depth, and amount are all vital factors when you treat a tree with damaged bark.
Call a Professional
If you don’t know how to treat your tree, or if you feel the damage may be too severe for you to manage, don't hesitate to contact a Rochester arborist who can give you experienced, professional advice. In general, if the destruction to the tree's bark extends under 25% of the perimeter of the trunk in the damaged area, the tree repairs itself with very little help. We will discuss with you if tree removal needs to be an option.
Do Nothing for Minor Damage
There are times you should leave your tree alone after bark damage. A few little nicks at the bottom due to a car or SUV getting too close or a mower are circumstances a tree can overcome by itself. It grows new bark over the scrapes or holes.
Also, trees can heal over large damage areas or grow a barrier that surrounds the hole, a method referred to as compartmentalization, safeguarding the rest of the tree.
Tip: If your tree has a little wound, get rid of the loose, damaged, or dried bark surrounding the injury until you get to the area where the new bark is covering the damage. If the wound doesn’t heal on its own, call a tree care professional.
For significant damage, you can save the tree by bridge grafting, a procedure of putting healthy tissue across the damaged area. This method is tricky and best left to a tree specialist.
It entails cutting healthy branches and twigs, so they lie flat against the tree's wound, carving a flap into the injury for the twigs and placing the pieces accurately, so the twigs merge with the trunk.
Tip: Keep examining the area of the wound for the next couple of years after the damage has occurred. If the tree isn’t progressively covering the wound with bark and healthy tissue, ask a tree contractor to take a look.
Trees have an amazing ability to survive numerous harmful agents that are always in their surroundings.
We realize that all trees ultimately die. There are many hundreds of saplings and seedlings that die for each mature tree left in the woods. All ages of trees at some point die to usually the same agents and only the lucky and most adaptive ones make it to old age.
The reason that a tree might die can be one of many: the environment, diseases, insects, catastrophic event, harvest, and old age. In most instances, death is due to a combination of one or more of these reasons.
Examples of a dangerous environment for trees include:
It is very critical to know your tree species' tolerance to environmental conditions when planting. Some trees adapt very well to dangerous sites, but you need to know which species fits in where.
Harmful Diseases and Insects
Three common diseases are horrible: oak wilt, anthracnose, and root rot. These pathogens attack the tree through bark wounds, roots, and leaves, damaging a tree’s vascular system if left untreated. Prevention is the only affordable option.
Destructive insects are cunning and typically invade trees that are stressed out from diseases or environmental issues. They directly cause trees to die and will spread deadly fungus from the host trees to surrounding foliage. Insects can strike a tree's cambial layer by hunting for food, or they can destroy a tree to death. Examples of bad insects are emerald ash borers, gypsy moth, and pine beetles.
A catastrophic event is always probable in an urban setting and a huge forest. Trees are subject to being destroyed or damaged. In many instances, trees aren’t killed but are damaged to the point where there’s no energy to resist disease and insects.
For trees who defy the odds and get to old age, there is a slow dying method that might take years to be done. This is because a tree compartmentalizes around diseased and damaged areas, continuing to grow. To learn if your tree is infested with insects or disease, call a Rochester arborist.
Trees die. This may sound a little harsh, but dead trees on properties are more typical than you think.
The real question is: If a tree is dying, how to tell this is what’s happening?
The Way to Tell If Your Tree Is Dying
Here are some significant indicators of dead and dying trees so you can fix the problem immediately.
After all, a dead tree on your property won’t repair itself. And the longer you let it go, the dangerous things can get for your property and you. Dying trees need to be removed by a tree care company that specializes in safe tree removal.
Do you see vertical cracks on the tree? Terrible damage to the trunk of a tree can significantly affect the possibility of your tree’s survival. Besides any seams or cracks on the trunk, inspect the tree’s bark.
As a tree matures, old bark falls off and is replaced with a new layer of bark (the tree must be healthy). If new bark doesn’t develop and spots of smooth wood stay, this can be a sign your tree’s health is deteriorating.
What do the branches look like? One indicator of a dying tree is if there are bare branches during the season when they should be covered with leaves.
You should also be aware that if the branches are dead on a deciduous tree, the dead leaves will hang into the winter instead of falling to the ground as they should if the tree was healthy. If dead branches are just on one side of the tree, reach out to an arborist to get your tree inspected for root and trunk damage.
Since roots run very far underground, seeing if your tree’s roots are damaged isn’t as simple as it sounds. The vitality of your tree’s roots can be affected due to poor soil, a shallow root system, new construction, and extreme elements.
One accurate indicator of root damage is a visible lean to the tree. Also, there is a problem with the roots if you see little branches coming from the trunk at the bottom of the tree. There is not only a problem with the roots, but your tree is stressed as well.
If you see that the area around the base of the tree is constantly wet, you most likely have an overwatered tree. Check out the new growth around the bottom of the tree as a positive indicator of this too. If new growth weakens before it’s completely grown or becomes light green or yellow, there’s too much water being used.
Also, carefully watch the leaves. They may appear to be healthy, vibrant, and green, but if they are fragile and tear easily, they are suffering from too much water. Are the shoots wilted? You have an overwatered tree.
How to Save and Repair An Overwatered Tree
When a tree is overwatered, it is fighting to breathe since the excess water takes over the air pockets. This makes an issue because the tree’s roots aren’t getting enough oxygen, but way too much water. This leads to long-term tree stress, fungi, or root rot.
If you believe that your tree is overwatered, stop watering it for the moment. After about a week, depending on the seriousness of the accumulated water, just let it dry out. Before you water it again, do a screwdriver test, only watering it where it is needed. If you don’t know about the screwdriver test, ask a tree contractor to come and assist you with getting your tree back its healthiness.
If you discover that the soil beneath your tree is nothing but clay, mix in some compost to aid the soil in draining. Be sure to examine your trees after it rains to see where and if the water is pooling. Inspect to see if the water is running down a hill, gathering at the bottom of the tree, or if a rain spout is draining near the tree.
Over-watered trees show various symptoms, like brittle leaves or leave that change colors, curl up, or prematurely fall off. If your tree displays any of these indicators, try some techniques mentioned here to reverse the damage.
While you should follow the recommendations a nursery provides you for watering your new tree, specific factors like damp weather or wet soil will require you to adjust your routine.
So we’ve heard about a thousand various reasons why and when pruning oak trees is okay. Let us set the record straight since it’s straightforward. When you cut a tree, when pruning it, the wound will ooze sap. Insects love sap. An insect, usually a beetle that can’t chew, will smell the sap and run to feed. At the same time, oak wilt will also create a mat under the bark, and it will push the bark open and show itself.
Work On An Oak Tree In The Wintertime.
The best way to halt the spread of the spore is to do it when there is a very slim chance of any insect feeding on the sap in the dead of winter. When the frost hits the ground, many insects are frozen to death or under the frost line.
Pruning oak trees is best done by an arborist who knows to do it in the winter months (November – April). This help to stop oak wilt disease, a general issue that is very hard to stop once it has begun. Oak wilt happens when a tree is most susceptible in its growing season. It is carried by insects that spread the fungal disease and get into the wounds in the bark.
If you have an oak tree that has been harmed in a storm and you have no alternative but to get rid of a few pieces in the warmer months, this is only when you will hear me suggest a sealer.
Wound sealers are harmful to trees, regardless the manufacturer claims. It hurts a tree’s natural ability to take care for itself. It will mess up the means of closing the wound, many times creating a pocket.
Major pruning for upper and large branches might be better left to a Rochester arborist who specializes in tree care services. These jobs need specialized experience, tools, and skills such as tree climbing.
Ladders shouldn’t be used for tree pruning. For branches or huge trees situated near power sources, contact a tree contractor for a quote.
Autumn is the most well-liked tourist season for Rochester, New York due to the many different colorful fall trees. Rochester is blessed with a vast assortment of broad-leaf trees from Sugar Maple to Japanese Maple. Columbus Day begins the peak fall tree tour seasonal usually ends at the first frost. From the Rochester staging grounds, many autumn tourists continue their trips to Niagara Falls and the Genesee Valley. If you are planning a vacation to Niagara Falls, make sure to take time to drive through Rochester and see the beautiful fall trees.
There are various ways to pick the many colorful trees for fall. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, trees that provide more than just autumn beauty has been chosen for this list. The following list is made up of fall-foliage A-listers that offer beauty, color, and style.
Sugar maple trees
Maple trees are royalty among trees in North America. People referred to as “tree huggers” will travel over 100 miles to see the fantastic fall-foliage on display. If you're one of these intrepid fall tree travelers, you are most like aware that maples are typical to make any list, any year for the most colorful fall trees.
Japanese maple trees
Japanese maples have a style all their own. Several types have colorful leaves not just in the fall, but during the other seasons. Japanese maple-crimson queen is a small type of foliage favored by fans of weeping trees. And what’s the bonus with this tree? Fortunate, it is admired with lovers of the art of bonsai.
American sweetgum is as colorful in fall as any tree. That is when the conditions and temperature cooperate. One may not get such a fantastic show every fall from sweetgum, but when you do, you rejoice in the combination of colors.
One thing to note about the sweetgum tree is that it isn’t a favorite of everyone. Some folks find them to be messy due to the sweet gum balls. If you have a sweet gum tree and need to get the balls out of your yard, call a professional tree care company.
Numerous factors can impair the growth of the maple tree. Below is some information on the different maple tree diseases. Maples are vulnerable to many illnesses brought on my fungus, insects, and pests.
Every one of these maple tree diseases develops based on climate conditions and soil. To avoid these diseases, maple tree planting must be performed with the right soil. Here’s a look at the various and most common diseases that usually distress maple trees.
Verticillium Wilt – Also known as maple wilt, this mold is a serious and common issue that can kill trees. This illness begins in the roots and works its way up the maple tree, causing dieback and cankers. Indications of maple wilt are diseased branches with sickly leaves and burnt-looking leaves. Sometimes, olive-colored streaks are discovered in the sapwood. This maple tree disease is considered the worst one because it can stay hidden in the soil years before it makes an appearance. Maple wilt gets into a tree through its roots.
Anthracnose – This disease causes shoot dieback twig death and extensive defoliation. Typically confused with frost damage, indicators of anthracnose are a canker on the trunk and main branches, purplish-brown spots along the veins of the leaves, and brown spots on leaves.
Tar Spot – This disease affects many maple species and creates tar-like, huge spots on the leaves.
Asian Long-horned Beetle – This insect harms the sapwood under the bark layer, stopping the tree from accurately transporting water and nutrients. Once a tree has Asian long-horned beetle disease, it will usually die within a year or two.
Other maple tree diseases and pests include:
Many of these maple tree diseases weaken a tree and brings about the death of a tree if not treated. If you believe there is an issue with your tree, contact a Rochester tree service company immediately for a tree assessment and treatment options.
A Rochester tree specialist can assist in protecting your trees and keeping them disease-free, making your outdoor space healthy and beautiful.
Rochester Tree Service wants to help you care for the trees on your property. Trees are valuable resources and we want to provide interesting information to you!