A huge shade tree is a treasure to be preserved and cherished. Older trees reduce utility bills substantially by shading the property. That makes mature trees worth the care and attention they necessitate. You might wonder, "Do trees die of old age?" It is contingent on the health of the tree and how well it is maintained. This article offers some tips for protecting your older green treasures.
Do Trees Die of Old Age? Keep Them Healthy to Live Long Lives
Protect the bark. Try not to let power tools like trimmers and mowers hit the tree and damage the bark. A layer of mulch encircling the tree is an excellent way to make a buffer zone. It's critical to avoid injuring the water vessels and growing tissue just under the bark.
Apply mulch. A mulch layer around the trunk is one of the most significant things you can do for your tree. It shields the soil surrounding the tree's roots, stopping foot traffic and lawn equipment. Mulch also enriches the earth as it deteriorates.
Use mulch made from wood. Apply it at least four inches deep around the trunk. The wider the mulch layer, the better. Don't just pile it against the bark of the trunk. It will produce diseases and decay.
Stay away from the roots. When there is compact soil is around a tree's roots, the tree can't soak in the air and water it requires. To not have compact soil, keep foot traffic away from under the branches of a tree. Move toys well away. Don't park vehicles on the roots.
Don't have anything dangling from trees. A rope used to hang a tire swing from a limb might swiftly wear away the protective bark and destroy the critical tissue. If the bark injury doesn't kill the branch, the weight could break it. To hang a hammock, don't use a rope. Instead, drill a hole and put in a big eye bolt.
Water. A mature tree could live off rainfall. However, when the weather is dry for many weeks, even a big tree requires watering to avoid stress. Water the tree gradually, so the roots can soak in the water. You can use your garden hose, or a couple of buckets of water poured over the root zone will work.
Learn more about the lifespan of mature trees by contacting us at Rochester Tree Service.
Because it is a simple matter to select plants according to the descriptions on labels, the actual test is deciding how much full sun you get in your landscape. This process might be harder than you think.
Even though there are devices that gage sunlight exposure, calculating this way isn't always accurate.
Environments where a rain-free summer day typically includes clouds that come and go may get the same reading as a place where a rain-free day includes cloudless skies.
Another method for measuring sunlight exposure is to observe, examining your planting area during the day. You want to determine the average time that the sunlight engulfs the spot.
Once you have an answer, it's just a matter of picking plants that fit the site's conditions, according to the plant labels.
For a planting spot to be "full sun," it doesn't need to be in complete sunlight. A garden is an entire sun site as long as it gets at a minimum of six total sun hours.
Several plants will flourish in more than six hours of sun. These plants can handle dry conditions once they get established. Regardless of the full sun plants you pick, a mulch layer helps sustain moisture in the soil, creating cool roots.
Plants that enjoy the full sun is the biggest group you will come to know. The vast majority of plants love the full sun if their moisture needs are satisfied.
The term "partial shade" means three to six hours of sunlight every day, if possible, in the early morning and early afternoon. Though there is a slight difference:
If a plant is partial shade, the plant will require some reprieve from the late afternoon sun's extreme heat. You could resolve this issue by planting close to a tree that will provide afternoon shade. Or you could plant on the side of a building that shields everything from the direct sun. Partial shade plants include several begonias and impatiens.
To learn more about full sun and partial shade plants, contact Rochester Tree Service.
Signs of Overwatering Trees: Young Trees
Younger trees usually necessitate more watering than older trees since their root system is underdeveloped. In the first few years of your tree's life, it isn't surprising to water two times a week.
As the tree gets older, the frequency of watering will change. Since roots develop deep down in the earth, trees like a deep watering less frequently. Drip systems are the ideal method since they let water gradually dribble down into the soil and get deep into the roots
Different types of soil and climate conditions alter from place to place. Therefore, tree watering changes as well.
Signs It is Time to Water Your Tree
There are indicators to aid you in deciding when it's time to water. The first is by checking your soil.
Put your hand into the soil and test the moistness. If it's dry, you need to water, if it feels wet, don't water for a few days. Heavy rainfall is a condition that could make tree care more difficult.
Mulch is a tree's BFF. Continually mulch your trees. It helps in retaining moisture and stops intrusive plants from taking over.
Giving your tree too much water is just as bad as not watering your tree. It's crucial to realize the difference and know the signs to care for your tree correctly.
After 24 months, your tree's life will endure a vast range of water conditions because it has a fundamental root structure. Continue to examine your tree to make sure it remains healthy. If you're in doubt about your tree's health, schedule a tree inspection with us at Rochester Tree Service. Our tree contractor can tell you about the health of your tree.
A new tree is an excellent addition to your outdoor space. Though, the planting procedure isn't complete when you put it in the earth. Fresh, young planted trees need distinct care during the first 12 months. Sadly, numerous planting mistakes can give you a dying tree. Knowing how to save a dying transplanted tree isn't always straightforward, nor is it a quick fix.
How to Save a Dying Transplanted Tree: Transplant Shock
Transplant shock is an expression that entails a host of symptoms that happen after incorrect planting. These symptoms are due to the recently planted tree, not rooting right. The first noticeable signs of transplant shock affect the leaves. The leaves could discolor or wilt. If you don't perform an inspection on your leaves, stem dieback might happen, followed eventually by the tree's death.
Check the Leaves
Early leaf drop is an indicator that there is an issue with your new tree. This time is when the tree starts to lose its leaves sooner than usual. If you believe your tree is dead, recall if you saw leaves dropping in the summertime.
Crunchy leaves on the tree might signify that the tree is dead. Generally, leaves fall off a tree, and fallen leaves don't stay on a tree. If the leaves look healthy, you have a living tree.
The branches of your tree could provide lots of information about its health. Pull a branch from your tree. If it breaks easily, that branch is weak or dead.
If the branch is flexible and takes a little energy to pull off, your tree is alive. If the center of the branch is dry and brown, the limb is dying and could indicate the rest of the tree is dying.
Aiding a Dying Tree
Bear in mind that you can move a tree any time of the year. However, most trees respond best to fall or spring planting. When replanting, till a spot around four times bigger than the root ball.
The tilled soil offers a place where the roots may develop. Split up the root ball with your hand and put the tree in the hole. Refill the hole with dirt and water properly. Fertilize the tree based on the species.
For more information on transplanting trees, get in touch with us at Rochester Tree Service.
Pruning flowering shrubs is a cause of concern to numerous gardeners, but it doesn't have to work this way. Understanding and knowing the values behind flowering shrub trimming can help you pruning like tree care professionals.
When Pruning Flowering Shrubs: Don't Prune
Gardeners toil under the idea that they must frequently prune to keep their shrubs in peak condition. False. Even when it comes to plants such as roses and hydrangeas, pruning isn't critical.
Pruning common shrubs such as burning bush, lilacs, and forsythia into tight mounds is pointless. Numerous flowering shrubs will look good when permitted to grow in their natural form. Recurrent trimming inspires lots of surface branching, resulting in reduced flowering and an unnatural structure. If you want a tightly trimmed look in your outdoor space, pick a plant that is suited to it, like boxwood.
Prune Spring Flowering Shrubs After Flowering
Plants that bloom after winter produce their flower buds 12 months earlier. If you trim these spring bloomers in the winter or fall, you'll eliminate the flower buds. You'll miss 12 months of blooms. Most plants don't necessitate pruning each year, just some thinning to give them an excellent shape.
Hydrangeas flourish on old wood. The little trimming, they require should be done right after flowering. They'll make better flowers if pruned in late winter. Gardeners are frequently confronted with stray limbs in late summer and fret about eliminating them. Go ahead and prune. The plant remains vibrant even when getting rid of a limb.
Your outdoor plants don't require as much pruning as you might think. If you'd preferably go to the beach than shear back your yard plants, go right ahead. The only possibly complicated part of pruning is deciding when to trim a specific plant.
Prune summer bloomers in the wintertime and spring plants right after flowering them. Broken branches may be trimmed back at any time. If you do something wrong, plants are very tolerant. You might miss a season of flowers, but the plant will recover recuperate for the next year.
Call Rochester Tree Service for more information on tree or shrub pruning.
Tree sap is the sort of stuff you may never pay attention to until you find it on your deck chairs, clothes, or sleeping bag. While this sticky mess seems to stick to everything, you can remove it from fabric. When it comes to learning how to get sap out of clothes, you'll find out it is like removing chewing gum.
Steps on How to Get Tree Sap Out of Clothes
Things You Will Need
If the item is little enough to fit, put the fabric item in the freezer for a few hours until the sap is brittle. If the thing is too big for the freezer, place a wax paper over the sap. Next, put a bag filled with ice cubes over the sap until it hardens.
Move the material under the sap back and forth to break the sap. Cut off the sap with a plastic knife. Use a piece of tape to get rid of any remaining sap.
Apply a citrus-based goo remover over the sap, letting it soak into the cloth. Clean the goo remover and sap away with a wet cloth.
Put some rubbing alcohol on a soft white cloth. Wipe the alcohol over the spot until the sap comes off. Put some liquid dish detergent on a damp cloth. Use the wet cloth to wipe away any residue. Let the fabric air dry.
Combine powder laundry detergent with water to make a paste. Put the detergent paste over the sap stains and let it sit for 30 minutes. Clean away the paste with a wet sponge. Let the spot air dry.
If you desire a country getaway on your landscape, then think about building log furniture. This design is charming and attractive. Log furniture can last for years as long as the wood is treated correctly from the beginning. The following article will explain how to treat wood before you begin on your next project.
How to Treat Wood - Prep It
Raw pieces of wood are excellent as they are. However, to be used for log furniture, properly preparing the wood is essential.
Untreated pieces for log furniture typically will be crudely cut with the bark still on the cut ends. Even if there's nothing terrible about the wood, you can't use it. The exterior will have numerous imperfections that make the completed product come out badly.
Put a drop cloth under your work area to safeguard the floor. Sand the naked logs, wipe them with a cloth, and then remove any dust still present. Apply a wood conditioner layer and let it seep into the wood for at least 2 - 4 hours. The conditioner will bring out any bumps still on the log. You can sand these bumps down.
To get an excellent stain on the wood, your work must be exact. Put a foam brush into the stain, and put it on the log using even smooth strokes.
As you paint the stain, don't overlap your earlier lines. Another way to put the stain on is to put it on liberally with a rag and then clean it off. Either method you pick will give a gorgeously stained log.
Let the wood dry overnight and sand once more. Clean the dust off with a cloth. Put on an additional coat of stain and allow it to dry. Follow with a layer of varnish and let it sit for 24 hours.
At this point, the log is treated accurately for use in a log furniture job. It is, though, not ready to use outside in the elements. For wood preparation, the piece needs treatment and sealing. A couple of applications of polyurethane will do the trick for you.
Call us at Rochester Tree Service with your questions about treating your wood.
Insects frequently wreak mayhem on our food crops, usually fruit trees. Sadly, wasps on fruit cause something of a hazard. This fact is why learning how to keep wasps away from fruit trees is vital.
Why and How to Keep Wasps Away
While wasps feed on many pests during the growing season, their attention shifts from protein products to sugary sources in the late summer to early autumn. Wasps are like humans. These pests in fruit trees are as natural as individuals in fruit trees. Both desire the same thing.
The negative side of these tiny predators living the same space as humans are their possible lethal stings. For some folks, the sting from wasps might be an aching bother, but it is a deadly threat for other individuals. Many people die from just one wasp sting.
Stinging wasps in fruit trees might attack several times. They also discharge a scent that lets other wasps know to come to their assistance.
Wasps and Fruit Trees
Fruit tree wasps will vehemently defend their territory when bothered by harvesting hands. Some protection is offered by wearing heavy clothing with boots and gloves. Also, a beekeeper's hat with a veil is a good idea too.
Since wasps love the sugars of the fruits, they enjoy juice leaking intoxicants of rotten fruit. Be sure to keep a clean area around the fruit tree, picking up any fallen fruit, and cut any damaged fruit still dangling from the limbs.
When spraying the wasps, it is best to use an insecticide named JET spray, which shoots out a stable stream going ten feet or more.
Because wasps are motionless at night, this is the best time to treat the nest. Spray the nest swiftly and thoroughly at night. Stay away for at least 24 hours. If applying a treatment to a ground colony, cover the entrance with soil to block it.
Lastly, a bait trap with meat or fish might help keep wasps away from your fruit tree. You can buy bait traps or make your own. For information on how to make bait traps for wasps in fruit trees, call Rochester Tree Service.
Found in northern climates, a paper birch tree is a fabulous addition to any landscape. Their slim canopy offers a shade that makes it probable to grow these trees in an ocean of groundcover plants like barberries and wintergreens.
Even though they adore cold climates, the limbs snap when the wind blows, and the weigh of ice and snow. Despite these setbacks, they are well worth growing for their fantastic bark that glows against a dim background.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees, also referred to as canoe birches, are native to lakesides and damp stream banks. They have just one trunk. Nurseries planted them in threes and named them "clumping birches."
The lower limbs are only a couple of feet off the ground. In the autumn, the foliage turns a glowing shade of yellow. Flourishing paper birch trees means you'll always have something attractive to look at in your outdoor space.
Facts About Paper Birch Trees Facts
Paper birch trees grow close to 60 feet tall.
The tree's most fascinating trait is its white bark with pink and black streaks. These trees create catkins that are gorgeous when in bloom. Most examples have loud-colored fall foliage.
Paper birch trees are a larval host for moth caterpillars. They also attract plenty of birds, such as sparrows. You can use them as roadside or lawn trees.
Paper Birch Tree Care
Paper birches transplant effortlessly. Plant them in an area with damp, well-drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Paper birch trees adapt to numerous soil types as long as it's cool during the hot months. These trees enjoy mild summers and long winters.
Paper birches are vulnerable to several insects, like the devastating bronze birch borers. If you live in a place where these insects are an issue, use a resistant cultivar.
You can also aid your tree in resisting birch borers by fertilizing every year with eco-green, all-natural mulch.
It's best not to trim a paper birch unless needed. Pruning attracts pests, and the tree bleeds abundant amounts of sap when cut. For more information on paper birch trees, come to us at Rochester Tree Company.
You labored diligently getting your apple orchard healthy. You've performed correct tree care and believed everything to be suitable for an excellent apple crop. Then, in the springtime, you see that your buds don't open. Afterward, you see the light gray matter covering your buds. This sighting signifies you have powdery mildew apple trees.
While powdery mildews don't kill their plants, they do a number on them. This fact is entirely accurate for powdery mildew on apple trees. The apple powdery mildew hits both wild and cultivated apples. Also, it happens in every part of the earth that produces apples.
Unlike many fungal disorders, powdery mildew spores do not necessitate water to grow. This sickness is known as the "dry weather disease."
Powdery Mildew Apple Tree Information
These are the bacteria of the powdery mildew fungus. The flowers don't flourish, typically with the blooms prone to be white green. These trees produce no fruit. Leaves might be the first to be afflicted. This foliage could be little and crinkly.
Ultimately, the disease will contaminate fruit, shoots, and leaves on adjacent trees. By the warm months, the right amount of the tree is turning brown. If fruit grows, a russet-colored skin covers it. Though, powdery mildew disease doesn't affect fruit until it reaches an extreme level.
Apple trees with powdery mildew are diseased by spores that have whooshed in and taken over the tree. Powdery mildew festers best in temperature between 60 to 80 F. Humidity isn't necessary for growth. This fungus continues to develop and contaminate until it gets under control.
Powdery Mildew Apple Control
A fungal treatment spray should start at the tight bud stage and carry on until new shoots' development ends for control over the powdery mildew. Use a host of fungicides, with a third application at the beginning of the warm months.
Healthy trees are less liable to die from powdery mildew. Keep them resilient with the right spacing for better airflow, pest control, proper drainage, and fungicide sprays. Prune your trees using the correct techniques. Well maintained trees produce abundant harvests.
Call us at Rochester Tree for more information on powdery mildew apple tree disease.
Rochester Tree Service wants to help you care for the trees on your property. Trees are valuable resources and we want to provide interesting information to you!