Winter's deep snow brings serious issues for rabbits. Deprived of food on the ground, rabbits feed significantly on shrubs and little trees that are over the snow. Rabbit damage is typical with numerous trees like cherries, crabapples, plums, dogwoods, and countless other plants. Seeing a rabbit on your landscape might warm your heart, but not if it's chewing on your tree's bark.
Girdling is when a rabbit eats the wood from around a tree. The sap can't run past the damaged area, so the top part of the tree slowly dies. There is no way to fix this sort of rabbit tree damage. Therefore, it's best to get rid of and replace the tree.
How to Protect Trees from Rabbit Damage
The only right way of stopping rabbit damage is to encase the tree's bottom with a container created with hardware cloth. Use wire that has holes no more than 1/4 inch and as tall as a bunny might reach, somewhere around 18 inches off the ground.
You must also factor in the anticipated snowfall since rabbits can stand on top of the snow to get to a tree. Put a few inches of space between the wire and the tree. Secure the hardware cloth tightly to the ground so that the rabbit can't get beneath it. Even better, put in the ground the lower part of the cylinder.
A home adjustment might also play a role in stopping rabbit damage. Get rid of piles of firewood, tall weeds, or knotted brush from your outdoor space. Doing this will leave no place for rabbits to hide. Habitat modification is most efficient in urban areas where there's not a lot of hiding spots.
There aren't any pesticides approved for use against rabbits. Though, some commercial repellents are successful in stopping bunnies from eating your tree bark. Read the label cautiously before using a repellent. Apply it based on package instructions. Some repellents make the tree taste horrible. But sometimes, a hungry rabbit will munch on the tree despite the taste.
For more suggestions on how to manage rabbit damage, ask Rochester Tree Service.
Uprooted trees, fallen limbs, and broken branches are all reasonable consequences of dangerous weather conditions. You can't put broken branches and tree trunks back together. Though, many individuals ask if an uprooted tree can be replanted and develop normally. Keep reading to find out the answer.
Replanting an Uprooted Tree
Rainstorms, strong winds, and other types of adverse weather can be dangerous to your community in numerous ways. A recurring occurrence that happens as a result of lousy weather is tree damage.
A tree ripped from the ground, due to rain and strong winds, is an uprooted tree. Also, demolition and construction work can cause a tree to uproot.
Tearing a tree from the ground causes its root system to suffer significantly. Not only will the root system experience damage, but the tree trunk and crown too.
As a tree flourishes, its roots expand into a massive network under the ground. This system of roots goes deep and wide. When a tree uproots, these lines are suddenly ripped apart and broken. This trauma can be very shocking for a tree. Because of this, an uprooted tree is hard to save. In other instances, an uprooted tree can be replanted and maintained, bringing it back to its natural condition.
Big trees are usually not worth the energy since it is too hard to save them. If a tree is massive, its root system doesn't just possess its water and nutrients. It also offers durability and strength. Since these large roots systems can't reconnect, it's impossible to save big trees once they uproot.
Moderate Sized and Small Trees
Moderately sized and small trees are the ones to consider replanting. Their root balls still have enough of a root system if replanted into the earth. Since small trees are lightweight compared to medium and towering trees, they usually have less limb and bark damage after being uprooted. However, just because little trees typically have less damage than big ones, it doesn't mean saving them is always definite.
If given correct tree care and maintenance, a tree might have a second chance at life. Contact a professional tree company, such as Rochester Tree Service, for dependable and accurate tree transplanting and removal. Their specialists have the right training, knowledge, and tools to safely and efficiently transplant or remove a tree.
Due to the weight and size of tree limbs, it could be hazardous cutting a tree down. Especially if you don't do this sort of work for a living. If you want to cut down a tree, you should leave the job to the tree professionals.
Handling Gravity When Cutting a Tree Down
When you chop down a tree, you have to consider gravity.
After cutting, gravity takes over. If you don't get control, you can't handle it when the branches begin falling. Cutting down a tree can swiftly become a harmful situation. The person doing the cutting won't be capable of telling when a tree is yielding to the forces of gravity.
Urging a tree to fall where you want it entails the right tools, experience, and skills. Without these, the tree could fall on your home, car, power lines, or other individuals.
The Right Equipment
Tree removal and tree trimming are serious, dangerous tasks that usually necessitates the right equipment and experience.
Tree trimming pros will use a chainsaw to make the most massive cuts. Use this tool only if it is in peak condition. There are other pieces of equipment that a tree expert can use to help eliminate trees safely. These tools are:
Businesses specializing in tree felling will know when a tree is dead or infested. These professionals use equipment such as a crane to stabilize and get rid of the wood correctly with no collateral damage. These tree tools need more than one person to operate. Even standard work with tree tools obliges safety in numbers.
If you don't have the right cutting tools, safety equipment, and folks helping you, you shouldn't even think about cutting down a tree. Reach out to us at Rochester Tree Service instead.
In the springtime, give your little ones the gift of a tree swing. The good news is that it is simple to do as long as you use the right tree for the task. Not only must the tree be shaped correctly to host a seated wing, signifying you need a mature tree with sturdy roots. Read on to learn which are the best trees for swings.
Finding the Best Trees for Swings
Your main priority when picking a tree for a swing is the tree type. You must select the right tree type since not all trees can hold weight. Some suggestions for tree types are maples, spruces, oaks, poplars, hornbeams, sycamores, and beeches.
You must also pick the correct shaped tree. You have to select a tree with a tall canopy so that branches are not a problem, but you also want to get a mature tree and has the appropriate structure for a swing.
Older trees have more robust root systems, meaning they are less likely to fall or uproot.
You also want the tree to be disease-free, healthy, and in a spot far away from any possible obstructions or hazards. The landing zone of the swing must be six feet or more. The area around the tree must have a clear perimeter.
Finally, you want to pick a tree that has the proper branch structure. Though you may be searching for flat or straight limbs, you should look for the toughest. You could always change the swing straps to the limb's height above if it is not equal. It would help if you had the branch capable of supporting at least 70 pounds or the weight of your children.
Tips for Hanging a Tree Swing
Get a professional tree inspection by Rochester Tree Service to be sure your tree is durable.
A huge shade tree is a treasure to be preserved and cherished. Older trees reduce utility bills substantially by shading the property. That makes mature trees worth the care and attention they necessitate. You might wonder, "Do trees die of old age?" It is contingent on the health of the tree and how well it is maintained. This article offers some tips for protecting your older green treasures.
Do Trees Die of Old Age? Keep Them Healthy to Live Long Lives
Protect the bark. Try not to let power tools like trimmers and mowers hit the tree and damage the bark. A layer of mulch encircling the tree is an excellent way to make a buffer zone. It's critical to avoid injuring the water vessels and growing tissue just under the bark.
Apply mulch. A mulch layer around the trunk is one of the most significant things you can do for your tree. It shields the soil surrounding the tree's roots, stopping foot traffic and lawn equipment. Mulch also enriches the earth as it deteriorates.
Use mulch made from wood. Apply it at least four inches deep around the trunk. The wider the mulch layer, the better. Don't just pile it against the bark of the trunk. It will produce diseases and decay.
Stay away from the roots. When there is compact soil is around a tree's roots, the tree can't soak in the air and water it requires. To not have compact soil, keep foot traffic away from under the branches of a tree. Move toys well away. Don't park vehicles on the roots.
Don't have anything dangling from trees. A rope used to hang a tire swing from a limb might swiftly wear away the protective bark and destroy the critical tissue. If the bark injury doesn't kill the branch, the weight could break it. To hang a hammock, don't use a rope. Instead, drill a hole and put in a big eye bolt.
Water. A mature tree could live off rainfall. However, when the weather is dry for many weeks, even a big tree requires watering to avoid stress. Water the tree gradually, so the roots can soak in the water. You can use your garden hose, or a couple of buckets of water poured over the root zone will work.
Learn more about the lifespan of mature trees by contacting us at Rochester Tree Service.
Because it is a simple matter to select plants according to the descriptions on labels, the actual test is deciding how much full sun you get in your landscape. This process might be harder than you think.
Even though there are devices that gage sunlight exposure, calculating this way isn't always accurate.
Environments where a rain-free summer day typically includes clouds that come and go may get the same reading as a place where a rain-free day includes cloudless skies.
Another method for measuring sunlight exposure is to observe, examining your planting area during the day. You want to determine the average time that the sunlight engulfs the spot.
Once you have an answer, it's just a matter of picking plants that fit the site's conditions, according to the plant labels.
For a planting spot to be "full sun," it doesn't need to be in complete sunlight. A garden is an entire sun site as long as it gets at a minimum of six total sun hours.
Several plants will flourish in more than six hours of sun. These plants can handle dry conditions once they get established. Regardless of the full sun plants you pick, a mulch layer helps sustain moisture in the soil, creating cool roots.
Plants that enjoy the full sun is the biggest group you will come to know. The vast majority of plants love the full sun if their moisture needs are satisfied.
The term "partial shade" means three to six hours of sunlight every day, if possible, in the early morning and early afternoon. Though there is a slight difference:
If a plant is partial shade, the plant will require some reprieve from the late afternoon sun's extreme heat. You could resolve this issue by planting close to a tree that will provide afternoon shade. Or you could plant on the side of a building that shields everything from the direct sun. Partial shade plants include several begonias and impatiens.
To learn more about full sun and partial shade plants, contact Rochester Tree Service.
Signs of Overwatering Trees: Young Trees
Younger trees usually necessitate more watering than older trees since their root system is underdeveloped. In the first few years of your tree's life, it isn't surprising to water two times a week.
As the tree gets older, the frequency of watering will change. Since roots develop deep down in the earth, trees like a deep watering less frequently. Drip systems are the ideal method since they let water gradually dribble down into the soil and get deep into the roots
Different types of soil and climate conditions alter from place to place. Therefore, tree watering changes as well.
Signs It is Time to Water Your Tree
There are indicators to aid you in deciding when it's time to water. The first is by checking your soil.
Put your hand into the soil and test the moistness. If it's dry, you need to water, if it feels wet, don't water for a few days. Heavy rainfall is a condition that could make tree care more difficult.
Mulch is a tree's BFF. Continually mulch your trees. It helps in retaining moisture and stops intrusive plants from taking over.
Giving your tree too much water is just as bad as not watering your tree. It's crucial to realize the difference and know the signs to care for your tree correctly.
After 24 months, your tree's life will endure a vast range of water conditions because it has a fundamental root structure. Continue to examine your tree to make sure it remains healthy. If you're in doubt about your tree's health, schedule a tree inspection with us at Rochester Tree Service. Our tree contractor can tell you about the health of your tree.
A new tree is an excellent addition to your outdoor space. Though, the planting procedure isn't complete when you put it in the earth. Fresh, young planted trees need distinct care during the first 12 months. Sadly, numerous planting mistakes can give you a dying tree. Knowing how to save a dying transplanted tree isn't always straightforward, nor is it a quick fix.
How to Save a Dying Transplanted Tree: Transplant Shock
Transplant shock is an expression that entails a host of symptoms that happen after incorrect planting. These symptoms are due to the recently planted tree, not rooting right. The first noticeable signs of transplant shock affect the leaves. The leaves could discolor or wilt. If you don't perform an inspection on your leaves, stem dieback might happen, followed eventually by the tree's death.
Check the Leaves
Early leaf drop is an indicator that there is an issue with your new tree. This time is when the tree starts to lose its leaves sooner than usual. If you believe your tree is dead, recall if you saw leaves dropping in the summertime.
Crunchy leaves on the tree might signify that the tree is dead. Generally, leaves fall off a tree, and fallen leaves don't stay on a tree. If the leaves look healthy, you have a living tree.
The branches of your tree could provide lots of information about its health. Pull a branch from your tree. If it breaks easily, that branch is weak or dead.
If the branch is flexible and takes a little energy to pull off, your tree is alive. If the center of the branch is dry and brown, the limb is dying and could indicate the rest of the tree is dying.
Aiding a Dying Tree
Bear in mind that you can move a tree any time of the year. However, most trees respond best to fall or spring planting. When replanting, till a spot around four times bigger than the root ball.
The tilled soil offers a place where the roots may develop. Split up the root ball with your hand and put the tree in the hole. Refill the hole with dirt and water properly. Fertilize the tree based on the species.
For more information on transplanting trees, get in touch with us at Rochester Tree Service.
Pruning flowering shrubs is a cause of concern to numerous gardeners, but it doesn't have to work this way. Understanding and knowing the values behind flowering shrub trimming can help you pruning like tree care professionals.
When Pruning Flowering Shrubs: Don't Prune
Gardeners toil under the idea that they must frequently prune to keep their shrubs in peak condition. False. Even when it comes to plants such as roses and hydrangeas, pruning isn't critical.
Pruning common shrubs such as burning bush, lilacs, and forsythia into tight mounds is pointless. Numerous flowering shrubs will look good when permitted to grow in their natural form. Recurrent trimming inspires lots of surface branching, resulting in reduced flowering and an unnatural structure. If you want a tightly trimmed look in your outdoor space, pick a plant that is suited to it, like boxwood.
Prune Spring Flowering Shrubs After Flowering
Plants that bloom after winter produce their flower buds 12 months earlier. If you trim these spring bloomers in the winter or fall, you'll eliminate the flower buds. You'll miss 12 months of blooms. Most plants don't necessitate pruning each year, just some thinning to give them an excellent shape.
Hydrangeas flourish on old wood. The little trimming, they require should be done right after flowering. They'll make better flowers if pruned in late winter. Gardeners are frequently confronted with stray limbs in late summer and fret about eliminating them. Go ahead and prune. The plant remains vibrant even when getting rid of a limb.
Your outdoor plants don't require as much pruning as you might think. If you'd preferably go to the beach than shear back your yard plants, go right ahead. The only possibly complicated part of pruning is deciding when to trim a specific plant.
Prune summer bloomers in the wintertime and spring plants right after flowering them. Broken branches may be trimmed back at any time. If you do something wrong, plants are very tolerant. You might miss a season of flowers, but the plant will recover recuperate for the next year.
Call Rochester Tree Service for more information on tree or shrub pruning.
Tree sap is the sort of stuff you may never pay attention to until you find it on your deck chairs, clothes, or sleeping bag. While this sticky mess seems to stick to everything, you can remove it from fabric. When it comes to learning how to get sap out of clothes, you'll find out it is like removing chewing gum.
Steps on How to Get Tree Sap Out of Clothes
Things You Will Need
If the item is little enough to fit, put the fabric item in the freezer for a few hours until the sap is brittle. If the thing is too big for the freezer, place a wax paper over the sap. Next, put a bag filled with ice cubes over the sap until it hardens.
Move the material under the sap back and forth to break the sap. Cut off the sap with a plastic knife. Use a piece of tape to get rid of any remaining sap.
Apply a citrus-based goo remover over the sap, letting it soak into the cloth. Clean the goo remover and sap away with a wet cloth.
Put some rubbing alcohol on a soft white cloth. Wipe the alcohol over the spot until the sap comes off. Put some liquid dish detergent on a damp cloth. Use the wet cloth to wipe away any residue. Let the fabric air dry.
Combine powder laundry detergent with water to make a paste. Put the detergent paste over the sap stains and let it sit for 30 minutes. Clean away the paste with a wet sponge. Let the spot air dry.
Rochester Tree Service wants to help you care for the trees on your property. Trees are valuable resources and we want to provide interesting information to you!