An overabundance of snow can destroy shrubs and trees by splitting, bending, and breaking them. This will make them uproot or topple over.
While snow brings its share of destruction, it also shields foliage and their roots from harsh changes in temps that could harm or kill. When dealing with snow damage trees, you must remember that whether trees will be hurt in one of these ways is based on many things. Broad leaf evergreens, for instances, can’t take as much snow weight as conifer evergreens.
A tree's shape can determine how well it will endure heavy snow. Fir, spruce, and pine trees with spread branches are most likely to get snow damaged than steep-angled branch trees.
Snow Damage And Trees: Factors to take into consideration
Evergreen shrubs with narrow, tall growth habits planted as foundation scenes or in hedges are a prime example of a tree that doesn't deal with heavy snow very well. They tend to grow tall, with multi-stemmed limbs that are close to the ground.
Snow makes the limbs separate. Instead of having tall evergreens in areas that receive a lot of wet, heavy snow, plant little, rounded woody-stem trees. Make sure you plant them away from any structure, so their roots can grow.
A tree's makeup is also an issue in whether it will be damaged by ice and snow. A tree with right-angle, solid limbs will be less trouble than one with vertical, narrow limbs. The snow type is a crucial factor in possible tree damage. Wet snow is more harmful since it’s heavier.
The time of the year (season) for snowfall is also a factor to be taken into consideration. With wet snow in March (when there aren’t any leaves on the tree), the tree might be able to resist snow damage pretty good. But that same snow in early fall or late spring (when the branches are covered with leaves) could bring excruciating weight.
If your trees do become snow damage, contact a Rochester tree care company to assess the damage and provide affordable, practical solutions to get your tree healthy and vibrant in time for spring.
Wet wood won’t burn. Newly cut, green wood has to be conditioned before it is dry enough to burn effectively. Regardless if you’re attempting to stay toasty on a camping trip or you are using your fireplace, dry firewood is vital for keeping your fire going and not messing up your stovepipe.
Green wood or bristles doesn’t offer much warmth. The wind and the sun are the best way to dry firewood. Here are a couple of things to aid with the process.
Storing and Stacking
Cut limbs from trees with a chainsaw, machete, or bucksaw. If you don’t own these tools, get a Rochester tree contractor to do it for you. Slice the wood into pieces that will fit into your fireplace or wood stove. Divide the stack of wood so that the air can circulate between the pieces. Don’t let the cut wood touch the ground.
The wood should be uncovered so it can get dried by the sun and wind. If it’s snowing, put a piece of tar paper, plastic sheeting, or tar over the wood to shield the snow from touch it and dew from forming. Plastic is a more water-resistant barrier, and it will stop condensation from evaporating. Take the plastic off on windy or sunny days to let the wet or green wood dry out.
Take some firewood inside 12 to 24 hours before you plan to burn it. Spread it out to let circulate the wood. Start the fire using dry wood. Damp wood will burn once the fire is already burning good. Tweak the damper, so the wood burns and doesn’t smolder.
If you are camping, search for firewood as soon as you get to the campsite. Put the wood under a tree or any other place where it will be sheltered. If it starts to rain or is raining, stack the wood off the wet ground and make sure that air can circulate it. Shield the wood with pine boughs or a piece of plastic. When you start the fire, put the wet pieces near it so they can dry before you use them.
A Rochester Arborist can help you identify the types of trees you have on your property and help you identify if any trees are dead and can be cut down.
Ornamental trees can be a great addition to outdoor spaces. While ornamental trees can bring aesthetic appeal to your home, it can be hard to keep them in good condition. In some cases, deer will eat the bark of certain tree types for nourishment. While this isn’t an issue in the wilderness, it can be a problem if it is going on in your yard, and it can damage your tree.
The following article offers some answers to why deer are eating your tree bark and what you can do about it.
Deer will eat an assortment of plants in their environment, such as grass, acorns, insects, flowers, leaves, and bark. If a deer gets into one’s yard, it could eat your flowers, vegetables, and tree bark.
Keep the Deer Out
To stop deer from coming into your property, you can use a deer repellent spray. Taken from a predator type, a deer repellent spray is generally made from concentrated urine. For deer, this can be bobcats, coyotes, or cougars. Also, deer can be repelled with just dog urine. If you are a dog owner, let your furry family member do his or her #1 and #2 in the yard to keep the deer out.
A fence is another effective way to keep the deer out. It’s critical to remember that deer are quite agile. Deer can just over a fence that is seven feet tall. If you decide to install a fence, you might want to make it over 12 feet tall.
You can also use a noise alert system in your garden or yard. An alert system has a specialized motion detector with a buzzer. If the motion detector detects any activity in your outdoor area, a buzzer will go off. This will scare the deer away.
Deer can be a pain for a homeowner and his or her property. While having deer in your yard can be frustrating, it is possible to keep them out by following these suggestions. Besides keeping deer out, these tips work for other irritating animals as well. If you need assistance with any of these tips, reach out to a Rochester arborist.
As the winter season approaches, it is time to begin the process of winterizing your outdoor area. Are there young trees in your yard? Boulevard trees? Thin-barked trees? If your answer is yes, you might want to think about sheltering them with tree wrap.
What is tree wrapping?
Tree wrap is a temporary product used to shield the trunk of thin-barked, new, and young trees in the wintertime. There are many tree wrap types, such as paper, PVC (plastic), vinyl, and burlap is the most popular kinds.
Tree wraps deliver a barrier from the sun, salt, deer, rabbits, and insects.
Thin-barked trees and sapling trees, like maple, honey-locust, and crab apple, are particularly susceptible to sun scald in the cold. Sun scald is characterized by areas of dead bark on the trunk that look cracked or dried. They are usually seen on the south side of trees. Sunscald happens due to the variation of temps between the sun and fast declining winter temperatures.
Why tree wrap?
Trees that sit near your walkway or on a busy street can also benefit from being tree wrapped during the cold months to prevent salt damage and bark treatment. De-icing salt can cause foliage disfigurement, stem disfigurement, and a tree’s death.
Damage from rabbits and deer can be a thing of the past by using tree wrap. Animals on the prowl for food in the winter months typically have to eat bark or exposed plants. When an animal chews on the bark, it exposes the bare wood underneath. This leaves the tree susceptible to insects and disease.
One thing to know about tree wrapping is that you can’t leave it on all year long. Arborists recommend that you wrap your trees at Thanksgiving and take it off at Easter. If you leave it on, the fungus can be under the wrap. You want to use a cover that shields against animals and insects but allows your tree to breathe.
If you want to learn more about tree wrapping or how to protect your trees during the winter months, take some time to speak with a tree expert at a Rochester tree care company.
Rochester Tree Service wants to help you care for the trees on your property. Trees are valuable resources and we want to provide interesting information to you!